Updated: Feb 22
If you find after your test fit that you are better fitted to different sizes in the one pattern, you can grade between sizes. For example, you may be a size 10 at the waist and size 14 at the hips. Or a size 12 at the bust and size 8 at the waist.
This is quicker than doing adjustments to specific sizes.
The great thing about having so many size options in the one pattern, means you can make use of these to make a project that fits perfectly! Grading between sizes is also known as ‘blending’.
You will have to grade all related pattern pieces in the same way. When you adjust a front piece, be sure to do the same adjustments to the back piece. A curved ruler helps with evenly grading.
1. Print pattern pieces with your size layer and the size layers smaller or larger than your size, depending on whether you need to grade the pieces smaller or larger.
2. Hips: Using a marker, draw a line over your starting size. Once you get to the waist notch, gradually curve across to your desired size, and down to the end of the seam.
3. Bust to waist: Using a marker, draw a line over your starting size. Gradually curve inwards or outwards to the waist notch, depending on whether you are grading smaller or larger. Continue with this size to the hips if you are not making a hip adjustment. If a hip adjustment is also required, gradually curve from your waist graded size to your desired hip size. An example of this would be a size 12 bust, to a size 8 waist, to a size 10 hips.
4. Mark all pattern details such as darts and buttonholes if these are in any position where you are grading.
5. Make sure all vertical markings such as side seams are kept vertical, as well as horizontal markings. This prevents unwanted kinking and sticking out of pattern pieces.
6. Cut all pattern pieces as per your markings and make garment as per the instructions.